This guide covers installing the rear Powerlet bracket for the ’18–’20 Yamaha Tracer 900 / GT, which mounts a Powerlet outlet cleanly into the rear mesh screen.
Read first — this is an advanced, permanent modification. It requires drilling a hole in the rear mesh screen (not reversible) and wiring a fused power connection. These are abbreviated steps that assume you’re comfortable removing/reassembling the Tracer 900’s bodywork and doing motorcycle electrical work. If you’re not, consult a mechanic or shop. JK3D isn’t responsible for damage to bodywork or other parts during this install.
At a glance
- Difficulty: Advanced — drilling into bodywork + fused electrical wiring
- Time: ~30–45 minutes
- Reversible: No — permanently modifies the rear mesh screen
- Tools: service-manual access · drill with a 20 mm / 7⁄8″ hole capability · flush cutter · blue threadlocker · wiring tools for a fused connection
- In the box: front & rear mount plates · Powerlet connector hardware (washer, nut, wire boot)
Note on terminology: in the photos, my “front” and “rear” mount labels are reversed from the actual bike — it made sense while I was looking at the part. The smaller plate is what I call the “front” mount.
Installation steps
- Remove the seat to access the rider’s-left rear bodywork.
- Mark the hole. Hold the smaller mount plate on the rear mesh, align its curve with the curve in the bodywork, and mark the center of the hole. You can offset ~1 mm left of the mesh if you need clearance for the Powerlet cap.
- Prep the mark. Use the temporary crosshair/center feature to mark or pilot the mesh, then cut out the crosshair plastic entirely (the red parts in the photo) and clean the edges.
- Drill the 20 mm+ (7⁄8″) hole in the mesh. On or off the bike. Off the bike means removing the lock-bracket mechanism, tabs, and rings to free the mesh. On the bike, drill from the rear facing forward (not from above the seat) and protect everything behind the bit.
- Loosen the seat-lock mount screws to open a gap for the rear mount plate.
- Slide the rear mount plate in with the raised tab facing away from the mesh; align it to the hole and snug the bracket slightly.
- Assemble the Powerlet:
- Pass the Powerlet connector through the front plate (correctly oriented, crosshair removed, and the washer/nut/wire cap removed from the Powerlet — you may need to remove the end connector).
- Feed the wire through the mesh hole and rear plate, then slide the assembly together with the cap-opening tab facing down so the cap opens toward the top of the bike.
- Fit the washer and nut on the back of the Powerlet and tighten until it resists rotating. Keep the front plate aligned to the bodywork curves and the rear plate tab under the lock bracket as you tighten.
- Tighten the lock bracket (blue threadlocker recommended) to compress the rear plate into place and make it rigid.
- Finish the wiring. Fit the wire boot on the back of the Powerlet and wire it to your battery or power-distribution system. This MUST be a fused connection. If you’re not comfortable with motorcycle electrical work, consult an expert or shop.
✓ You’re done when: the Powerlet is rigid in the mesh (no rotation), the cap opens upward, the bodywork sits back cleanly, and the outlet is wired to a fused power source and tested working.
Questions or stuck? Email support@jk3d.us — I answer personally.