This guide covers installing the JK3D Tank RAM/AMPS Ball Mount Plate for the Yamaha Tracer 900 / GT. There are two ways to install it — a quick no-drill version and a recommended solid version — described below.
At a glance
- Difficulty: Easy (Option 1, no-drill) → Advanced (Option 2, recommended)
- Time: ~15 min (Option 1) · ~45 min (Option 2)
- Reversible: Option 1 yes · Option 2 no (drills 2 holes in the tank cover)
- Torque spec: Option 2 plate screws ~5 Nm
- Tools: 3 mm hex wrench · 5 mm drill bit (Option 2) · isopropyl alcohol wipe (not acetone) · blue threadlocker
- You supply: RAM AMPS ball (RAM-B-347U) + 4× 20×5 mm screws / 5 mm Nylock nuts · optional 2.5 mm zip ties for the 3 wire tie-downs
- Option 1 — No-mod, 2-screw: a semi-stable mount that may bounce a little on rough terrain but works with no modification to the bike.
- Option 2 — 4-screw (recommended): drills two 5 mm holes in the fuel tank cover and adds the included under-fairing shim for a very solid mount that still flexes enough to protect your phone from harsh vibration. You can start with Option 1 and upgrade to Option 2 later.
Parts in the kit
Some photos show a prototype plate — the install and plate are identical apart from superficial differences. Click any image to enlarge.



Preparation — mount the RAM ball to the plate
Install the RAM AMPS ball onto the JK3D plate first — it’s far easier before starting. Use the 4 holes at the “front” of the plate and tighten the AMPS screws/nuts securely, then continue.
Option 1 — No-mod, 2-screw install
No modification to the bike. The plate will bounce a bit as the tank front cover flexes, and because the two screws do all the work, threadlocker on them is important.
- Remove the 2 exposed screws on the tank front cover/cowling around the cockpit. Keep them safe for a return to stock.

- Clean and expose the VHB. Clean the plastic with isopropyl alcohol (not acetone — it attacks plastic) to remove dirt and oils, and let it dry fully. Peel the 3M VHB tape labels to expose the adhesive — don’t touch the VHB or let dirt/oil contact it.


- Fit the plate. Slide the 25×5 mm screws (with stainless washers) through the “rear” holes of the plate and add a dab of blue threadlocker to the screw ends. Align the rear screw bosses with the open holes in the tank cover and set the plate evenly into the recesses. Then press firmly around the forward screw holes for 30 seconds so the VHB adheres strongly.


- Wires: loop small 2.5 mm zip ties through the 3 tie-down positions (push the tip through; bend it slightly if it sticks).
Break-in: after the first ride in hot summer sun, re-tighten the rear screws for any initial settling of the rubber bushing and plastic. This material handles sustained UV/heat (tested 10,000 mi over 1.5 years in 115°F Arizona/New Mexico desert) but settles a little at first.
Option 2 — 4-screw install (recommended)
Do Option 1 through Step 3 first, then continue here.
- Remove the plate hardware and the cover. Take any attachment off the RAM ball, remove the 25×5 mm screws from Option 1 (the VHB holds the plate — don’t load it), then remove the tank cover per Yamaha’s instructions. Keep all push tabs for reassembly and unclip the cowling carefully all the way around. Try not to flex it near the mount or the VHB may release.

- Install the under-fairing shim. With the forward fairing screws now exposed, remove them from the rubber bushing mounts. Test-fit the JK3D under-fairing shim and confirm the holes line up. If alignment is good, clean the surface with alcohol, let it dry, peel the shim’s VHB label, and press it firmly in place. Tip: thread the 30×5 mm screws through the shim holes to keep alignment while you set the VHB.


- Drill the fairing cover (recommended off the bike, with the JK3D mount still held on by the VHB). Using the mount as a drill template, carefully drill through the forward mount holes with a 5 mm bit:
- Keep pressure on the plate and cover so the VHB stays adhered.
- Drill centered in each hole and only far enough to pierce the plastic cover — going too far/fast can let the drill chuck hit the JK3D plate (that damage isn’t covered by warranty).
- Some screw resistance through the 5 mm hole is normal.


- Reinstall the cover and mount. Put the cover/fairing/mount back on the bike per Yamaha’s instructions. Confirm the under-fairing shim hasn’t moved — you should see it through the forward hole you drilled. Then insert the screws: 30 mm in the forward holes, 25 mm in the rear, with blue threadlocker on the ends, and torque to ~5 Nm.


- Wires: secure them through the 3 zip-tie positions as in Option 1.